It will also help save your back by getting things up closer to eye level when you're sitting on the floor reaching in to disconnect the hoses in steps 15-22.ġ2 Get under the car and spray PB Blast liberally on the 5 13mm bolts that secure the tank and shield.ġ3 While under the car, locate the tangs on the little white plastic clip that fastens the vapor recovery hoses to the tank. Get the car up pretty high since you'll need the room to drop the tank onto your chest later. Keep a rag under it so you don't pour gas all over the carpet.Ĩ Siphon fuel into appropriate container and then cover the tank hole with a plastic bag to reduce the fumes.ĩ Crack rear wheel lug nuts loose but do not remove.ġ0 Jack up all four corners and set the car on jack stands. See my post here: )ħ Carefully lift out fuel pump unit without damaging the float or intake screen. One is taped to the tank so be careful later when you drop the tank.Ħ Remove 8 phillips head screws (This could suck. You might want to consider thoroughly reading the other post and having the tools and replacement hardware on hand.Ģ Remove driver side rear seat cushion by yanking upward on the tab.ģ Expose hatch and remove 4 phillips head screws.Ĥ Use 2 small flathead screwdrivers to disconnect 2 fuel lines by prying the 2 green tabs outward (very difficult).ĥ Disconnect 2 electrical connectors. I previously had replaced the housing and buttoned it back up with stainless Allen head screws coated with anti-seize in case I ever had to remove them again so my fuel pump unit came out pretty easily this time. Fortunately, you're replacing the tank anyways so you'll have the freedom to chisel, drill or grind off the screw heads without having to deal with extracting the screws cleanly. Check out the link in step 6 to view my post about this. Removing the 8 tiny phillips head screws that fasten the fuel pump housing can be quite challenging and is actually a job in itself. You also might be able to convince the muffler shop to take the old tank for their scrap metal pile and save yourself a trip to the scrapyard. If you're in the MA, RI, NH area check out Lou's Custom Exhaust. You'll also need to cut out the exhaust mid-pipe so call some exhaust shops and find out the cost (Should be around $100) and make an appointment to have it welded back up. Also, plan to let the tank in the car get VERY empty to reduce the amount of fuel you'll need to siphon out of it. The Spectra Premium MZ17A tank I bought comes raw.not stainless, not galvanized, not painted.just bare steel with a light layer of viscous rust preventative oil so if your choice of tank is the same then you might want to pick up some primer and underbody coating in rattle cans from Home Depot and get the tank painted a few days beforehand. New fuel tank (I used a Spectra Premium MZ17A)įuel pump housing gasket (Included with the MZ17A)Īcetone/Alcohol to clean off the rust preventative oil and Primer/Paint for new tank (optional)ġ-1/2" to 1-3/4" hose clamp if you have to cut the fuel filler hose clamp I say optional because I don't own one but it seems like it would help a ton but I'm not sure if I could have gotten the tool in there, anyways. Optional: Radiator hose pick to help disconnect hoses. Prybars (Harbor Freight #1654 worked well) Sawzall or 4" or 6" diameter cut-off tool or cutting torch I was one of the first to get the fuel pump leak so maybe I'm one of the first of a bunch of rotted tanks.Ĥ jack stands or two jack stands and two ramps I decided to do a write up or "How to" as a companion piece to my post about replacing the fuel pump housing from a few years back. It was a tiny leak but it was dripping onto the shield and creating a lot of surface area to evaporate from and really stink up the area around the car. The Protege5 was smelling like gas so I thought my fuel pump housing was leaking again but it turned out that the bottom of the tank was "sweating" gas through some pinholes near the drivers side control arm.
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